7/17/2022

Pioneer Slots Race

Pioneer Slots Race 2021. Sun 10 Jan 06:00 Uitenhage Town Hall, Market Square, Uitenhage-,25.424617. Pioneer Slots Race 2021.

Pioneer slot cars has been a hot topic among many enthusiasts in our hobby and for good reasons. First, we have yet another new company joining our hobby which is always good news. Second are the models they have chosen to begin with. Our debut offering is the iconic 1968 Mustang GT 390 that Steve McQueen drove in the movie BULLITT. One of the most popular car movies ever made and to many has the greatest car chase scene ever filmed.

Pioneer Slots Race Games

Now I have to be honest and admit that this particular model did not have me that excited. Although I think this car is very cool, street models do not appeal to me as much as dedicated race liveries. Still, many of you out there really enjoy them and I must admit that at least this hot rod has a great history to it. And this might be why this slot car will really appeal to the pure collectors in our hobby along with others that simply want to have fun.

Our sample arrived safe and sound and my first impressions are favorable. First is the box art. It is very well done and should please most who care about such things. The sleeve is a little tight and mine had a small tear on the top left corner. For me this is no issue. I will simply tape it and move on. Looking underneath there is some interesting information about the model: 'This slot car is ready for simple conversion to digital function with the Scalextric EasyFit Digital Plug'. Well, this is interesting and should be a hint that this model is not just here to be a shelf queen.

  1. This is the Pioneer Chevy Camaro Yenko SS427 Gold Route 66 Limited Edition 1/32 Slot Car. This is a number limited edition run of only 427 cars! These are directly compatible with most 1/32 analog tracks (Carrera, Ninco, SCX, Scalextric), as well.
  2. The detail in Slot Cars is amazing. Many cars now have working front & rear lights. Scalextric celebrated 60 years in 2017 and are a world leader in both analogue and digital racing.
  3. Pioneer Slots Race Uitenhage Market Square January, 11 6am. General Information 1. The 25km race will start at 06h00, the 10km at 06h30 and the 5km at.
  4. P083 '34 Ford Coupe, 'Smokey's Racing Legends' Modelled after the popular Legends Racing Series cars, this is the ’34 Ford Coupe in a Smokey Yunick racing livery with, of course, race number 13. High detail, high quality and superb fun on the track.

Even more is found under the base. There is a VDC (Vehicle Data Card) that has all sorts of cool facts about the car and the movie. Nice touch. Not that it matters that much to some, but I like seeing information like this. What really surprised me was the spare parts. There is just not a pair of braids here like we see from other companies. We have the braid and spare guide PLUS 4 spare tires, rear bumper, wipers and finally the outside mirror. This should answer the question if they intended this model to be raced. Most of you in our hobby will appreciate having these spares, I know I do.

Ok enough about the box and the spares, let us get to the car! You will need a cross tip screwdriver to remove the model from the base and then we can get a closer look. As usual I will let the photos try and do most of the talking. Did they do a good enough job? I certainly think so. The Highland green seems a perfect match to the prototype or at least it does for my eyes.

Overall body shape is accurate enough for me and should please most fans of this pony car. A nice clear coat seals the paint and appears even throughout the body with no signs of dirt or fading.

Pioneer slots race track

Pioneer Slots Race Track

It is the interior here that really caught my eye. The figure of Steve McQueen is done well enough right down to the jacket and shirt he wore in the chase scene. I also like the hand molded to the gear shifter and dashboard detail.

The wheels and tires are next and many enthusiasts have already commented on how much they like them. They appear very accurate although the wheel seems a little small in diameter. This may just be my perspective. In any case they look great with the brake rotor detail and the pattern is as close as you could ask for. They also seem very round and true and the tire compound is a medium to soft so we should have decent grip in stock form.

As this is an all new model we are doing this review a little differently, so let us take a closer look at the rest of this model before testing. There are 6 screws that mount the body to the chassis. 2 of these screws in the center go into the interior. They are counter-sink screws so do not mix them up with the others.

Inside we finally see our chassis. First is the all new TYPHOON motor. What is interesting is it is rated at 18,000 RPM @ 12 Volts. Usually other companies have ratings based on the voltage their track system comes with. I like seeing this motor rated at the proper voltage. It has cooling holes across it and makes it a very recognizable motor can. It has a 12 tooth pinion that turns the 36 tooth spur gear.

There is a similarity between this chassis and those found under some of the Scalextric models. However, it is not identical. We do have our bar magnet that has an optional middle position mount. Then we have the Scalextric Digital Plug for easy conversion.

Pioneer Slots Race Game

Up front we see the guide and at first it appears very odd. The guide shaft is VERY long and extends far above the chassis. The reason for this is how you change the braids. You must pull straight down on the guide and you will releases it to the down position. Then you pull out the braid and replace it.

It is not that easy to pull it down and Pioneer is aware of it. They are changing it to a version 2 that will be easier to pull down. I like hearing this as it shows they are paying close attention to what they need to address.

The solid axle up front is held in place with 2 nylon bushings. On my sample there is a little free-play allowing the axle to float slightly inside the bushing, in other words the bushing has slightly larger inside diameter than it needs. This is most likely to account for some uneven track surfaces. They amount is not a lot, and see no reason to try and eliminate it.

So there we have it. And all new chassis and motor. Let's see what this thing can do shall we?

Box Stock Track Testing
MidMo International Speedway

4 x 16 - 3 Lane MDF Routed Wood - Flat Latex Surface
Copper Tape Conductivity - Aftermarket Power @ 12 Volts PARMA 25 OHM Control

This model needs break-in and some basic maintenance as most ready to run models do, but it did very well in our box stock test. There is a slight noise from the gears but that is expected from almost any model. What I liked was the grip these tires provided on our non-magnet track. Plus it did not hop around that much and the car just felt well balanced. I enjoyed driving this model as the motor was mild enough for my smaller track, yet has decent braking and plenty of punch from the corners.

We averaged a 4.7 second lap time which for a box stock model with no tuning is very acceptable. You could make some adjustments and perform some standard tuning here and there to get it even better, but I will leave the model alone. I see no need in trying to shave a few tenths off here and there on a model such as this. It is a cool street machine that will not see much track time here until the Charger that is planned arrives. And honestly, even then we will most likely leave them in stock form.

So where can you get one? These models are available by ordering direct from www.inaslot.com. There is a link on the Pioneer Main Page to order. I have been told that a USA distribution system is in the works, so we should see this brand grow larger when it is available from our local hobby dealers.

My final thoughts? I think this is a great rookie effort by the folks at Pioneer. Nothing is perfect in our hobby, but I think they did a great job. There other companies in our hobby who have been around for years and still cannot design a decent chassis or use the right gears. It appears Pioneer has actually listened to enthusiasts and from the feedback I have seen from other racers it is also evident they care about customer service. I hope the very best for this company. They seem to be intent on making nice quality slot cars and have plans to make very interesting choices. I look forward to trying more in the future.

- Harry

As always feel free to contact me about this article or just the hobby in general atharry@homeracingworld.com, or better yet drop into our Message Forum and share your thoughts with other enthusiasts!

Thanks Go To Pioneer For Providing Us With This Sample!

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Pioneer slots race game

A place for members to share their ideas and tips on getting the most out of their cars: Just put them in the comments and we, (site Admin), will publish them in this section. There are a lot of “tuners” in this club who can contribute! It just helps out the “new guys”!

Here’s the next in a series of setup guides I’ll be publishing to help drivers get the most out of their cars. This time its the Pioneer Muscle Cars. See the link below to download it to your computer:

Cheers,

Simon

Hi everyone,

I’ve been collating and reformatting lots of info and useful guides (big thanks to Nick for supplying a lot of it!!!) to help drivers set up their cars. I’ll be adding more as I get through it.

First up is the NSR LeMans cars being raced next week. Click on the link below and it will open the .pdf file for you:

Cheers,

Simon

Slots

Slot Car Tuning Guide – The Ultimate Checklist
www.slotcarcorner.com / www.slotcarcorner.ca
Version 1.0d – February 15, 2016 – Copyright © 2016 by Slot Car Corner Canada – All Rights Reserved Page 1
Building, preparing and tuning a slot car for a race is a fun part of the hobby. Some
people just like to add some lubrication and change their tires before going to a race.
Others want their car to be the best it can be.
For those people, we have created The Ultimate Checklist for tuning a slot car. If you
go through this list every time you’re preparing a car for a local club race or a long
proxy race, we can’t promise you’ll win every race but you’ll certainly have one of the
best handling cars on the track.
* Of course, make sure the race or club rules allow each modification we’re suggesting.
We sure don’t want you to be called a cheater!
If your time is limited or you don’t really need your car to be the best it can be (!), you
can concentrate on the lines that are shaded.
Guide
o Make the guide as long as possible without it binding in the tightest turns of the track.
o Set the guide as low as possible without hitting the bottom of the slot.
o Use guide spacers if needed but make sure the guide does not rock.
o If using adjustable axle blocks, raise the front axle if needed to get the guide as low as
possible. You can also use a smaller wheel/tire combination (outer diameter).
o If using fixed axle mounts, lower the front axle by reducing the outer diameter of the tires
and/or using a smaller wheel/tire combination (outer diameter).
o Make sure the guide rotates freely in the guide holder without it rocking or binding
(loosen guide screw, add some lube or enlarge the hole for the guide if needed).
o Make sure the guide shows no sign of cracking or fatigue.
o Make sure the guide holder shows no sign of cracking or other damage.
o Make the braid almost as long as the guide flag to make good contact everywhere
around the track.
o Set the braid as flat as possible to prevent it from lifting the front of the car out of the
slot.
o Enlarge the ends of the braid and bend them a little for it to make good contact.
o Place/route the lead wires so that the guide will come back to its forward position by
itself after a crash.
o Secure the eyelets that bring the lead wires into the guide, to make sure they don’t come
out during the race.
o Make sure the motor lead wire is long enough to allow the guide to rotate freely from
« stop to stop ».
o Route the lead wires so that they are not interfering with the front axle rotation.
o Make sure that the braids are not touching one another (shorting out) on top of the
guide.
o Replace the braids if they are worn or torn.
o Clean the braids and remove accumulated dirt at the ends.
o Make sure the body does not prevent the guide from rotating freely.
Front Axle & Wheels
o Use front wheels that are concentric.
o If using plastic wheels, remove any flashing.
o Make sure the front wheels are round and true.
Slot Car Tuning Guide – The Ultimate Checklist
www.slotcarcorner.com / www.slotcarcorner.ca
Version 1.0d – February 15, 2016 – Copyright © 2016 by Slot Car Corner Canada – All Rights Reserved Page 2
o If using set screw wheels, replace set screws if they’re stripped.
o If using set screw wheels, make sure the set screws are tight on the axle.
o If rules permit, use low friction front tires (Zero Grips).
o Make sure the front wheels are not binding with the chassis or body.
o Glue and true the tires to the wheels. Ensure tires are fully seated on wheels.
o Remove any flashing (inside or outside) from the tires.
o Profile the edges of the front tires (inside and outside) so that they are sligthly rounded.
o Adjust the front axle so that both tires are touching the track at all times.
o Make sure the front tires are not too wide.
o Front wheels that have independent rotation usually improve handling.
o Adjust the front axle height correctly.
o Adjust the front axle so that it doesn’t move up and down, for better stability in the turns.
o Add spacers or bring the wheels closer inside if the axle has side-to-side movement.
o Make sure the front axle is parallel to the track (same height on both sides).
o Make sure the front axle is perfectly perpendicular to the slot.
o Make sure the front axle rotates freely and without vibration.
o Replace the axle if it’s not perfectly straight, is worn or has deep scratches.
o Use a front axle that has the correct length.
o Add some lubrication where the front axle passes trough the axle mounts/blocks.
o Use oval point set screws to adjust the axle height, for less friction when rotating.
Rear Axle & Wheels
o Use rear wheels that are concentric.
o If using plastic wheels, remove any flashing.
o Make sure the rear wheels are round and true.
o If using set screw wheels, replace set screws if they’re stripped.
o If using set screw wheels, make sure the set screws are tight on the axle.
o Make sure the rear wheels are not binding with the chassis or body.
o Use the best tire compound you can use for the track surface the car will be run on.
o Glue and true the tires to the wheels. Ensure tires are fully seated on wheels.
o Remove any flashing (inside or outside) from the tires.
o Profile the edges of the rear tires (inside and outside) so that they are sligthly rounded,
to get a smoother ride under load in the turns.
o Use the widest tires you can fit under the body, for better grip.
o If using wheels with inserts, make sure inserts are secure (use a drop of glue if needed).
o Choose the right tire diameter, a compromise between lowering the center of gravity and
having enough clearance for gears and the track surface.
o Add spacers or bring the wheels closer inside if the axle has side-to-side movement.
o Remove any slop in the rear bushings (replace bushings if needed).
Slot Car Tuning Guide – The Ultimate Checklist
www.slotcarcorner.com / www.slotcarcorner.ca
Version 1.0d – February 15, 2016 – Copyright © 2016 by Slot Car Corner Canada – All Rights Reserved Page 3
o Make sure the rear axle rotates freely and without vibration.
o Make sure the bushings are perfectly aligned.
o Glue the bushings in their holder (if possible).
o Add some lubrication inside the bushings.
o Align the crown/spur gear with the pinion correctly.
o Choose the right diameter for the crown/spur gear to create a good mesh with the
pinion.
o If using set screws to secure the crown/spur gear, make sure the set screws are tight on
the axle.
o If using set screws to secure the crown/spur gear, replace set screws if they’re stripped.
o If using an offset inline motor pod, use a crown gear that is also offset.
o Replace the axle if it’s not perfectly straight, is worn or has deep scratches.
o Use a rear axle that has the correct length.
Motor Pod
o Make sure the motor pod does not move from front-to-rear.
o Make sure the motor pod is not binding with the chassis (sand the edges if it is).
o If using an anglewinder configuration, make the rear of the motor pod rigid enough to
eliminate «Anglewinder Hop».
o Enlarge the screw holes of the motor pod slightly allow some movement.
o Use tape or another kind of suspension system to dampen motor pod movement.
o Replace the motor pod if it is damaged and in need of replacement.
o Make sure there is sufficient clearance between the motor pod and the racing surface.
Motor & Gears
o Lightly oil the motor shaft at the can end of the motor (about once a year is enough).
o Glue or screw in the motor in the motor pod or chassis.
o Make sure the motor does not exhibit a burned electrical smell.
o Check to see if the motor shaft bushings/bearings have excessive play (slop).
o In a sidewinder configuration, make sure the motor shaft is not rubbing against the tire.
o In an inline configuration, add grease to self-centering portion of the crown hub to
prevent excess wear from the motor shaft.
o Choose the right pinion diameter to create a good mesh with the crown/spur gear.
o Replace the pinion and/or the crown/spur gear if they are worn.
o Remove all useless capacitors and resistors on the motor.
o Make sure the motor does not bind with the body interior.
o If you want more magnetic attraction, place the motor opening (if there’s one) on the
bottom.
o If you want to reduce the risk of debris getting inside the motor, place the motor opening
(if there’s one) on the top.
o Use the best gear ratio for the tracks/races on/in which this car will be used.
o If using a long can motor, use a flat motor if possible to lower the center of gravity.
Slot Car Tuning Guide – The Ultimate Checklist
www.slotcarcorner.com / www.slotcarcorner.ca
Version 1.0d – February 15, 2016 – Copyright © 2016 by Slot Car Corner Canada – All Rights Reserved Page 4
o Route the motor lead wires to the front guide without interfering with the pod, interior,
chassis, etc.
o Solder the motor lead wires properly to the motor tabs.
Chassis
o Replace or repair the chassis if it is damaged or cracked.
o Make sure the main chassis plate is perfecly flat (if not, flatten it).
o Make sure the chassis is not binding with the body.
o Make sure the lead wires are not preventing the guide to rotate freely.
o Make sure the lighting system is not binding with other components.
o Place the weight (lead) where it benefits handling the most.
o Secure the weight well so it won’t come loose while racing.
o Make sure the car meets minimum weight requirements (if applicable).
o Make sure the chassis is not binding with the body (sand the edges if it is).
o Make sure the body posts are robust enough (if on chassis).
o Make sure there is sufficient clearance between the underside of the chassis (including
motor pod if present) and the racing surface.
Body
o Glue in or put back in place all components of the body (windows, lights, wings, etc.).
o Make sure the body has the right amount of float without binding with other components.
o Make sure the body posts are robust enough (if on body).
o Use body screws with smooth shoulders (no threads) for the upper half to facilitate float.
o Make sure the body does not touch the track when floating.
o Replace the body post screws if they are worn or the head is stripped.
o Prevent loosening of the body screws by using nail polish, beeswax, threadlocker, etc.
o Place small pieces of tape over chassis openings to prevent the loss of body screws.
o Make sure body roll does not cause interference with the motor, interior, chassis, etc.
o Use some kind of dampening device between the body posts and the chassis, if needed.
General
o Make sure the car is not making any vibration noise when being driven.
o Make sure the car is not chattering (rear wheels vibrating) in the turns (left or right).
o Make sure the car is not dragging at the bottom of the slot.
o Check to see if the car rolls freely after stopping.
Slot Car Tuning Guide – The Ultimate Checklist
www.slotcarcorner.com / www.slotcarcorner.ca
Version 1.0d – February 15, 2016 – Copyright © 2016 by Slot Car Corner Canada – All Rights Reserved Page 5
The Slot Car Tuning Guide – The Ultimate Checklist was prepared by Christian Gingras at Slot
Car Corner Canada, with help from Steve Sawtelle and Mike Chiocchio. Please contact us for
any comments, errors, omissions, etc. We will update this document when needed. Please
check for updates on our respective websites (www.slotcarcorner.com / www.slotcarcorner.ca).